April 5, 2008
On Thursday afternoon I decided that, except for two trips to a local grocery store for bottled water and bananas, I had spent most of my first four days in China in my hotel room or in Ditan Park. This was not wholly a bad thing, as I had been fairly sick for two weeks and I was no doubt suffering from jetlag. Mornings were spent with Teacher and afternoons were spent doing quiet things, reading, napping, emailing or journaling. Finally, I needed to do something else, but, what? I wanted fresh air, exercise and a destination with which I was familiar. It had to be Lama Temple!
Lama Temple (http://www.beijingservice.com/lamatemple.htm ), or Palace of Peace and Harmony Lama Temple, is a place of fond memories. Ken Lubowich typically takes his groups of massage therapists there, so I've been two or three times. On one occasion a group of Tibetan Monks, dressed in their orange robes, were chanting a ceremony apparently for three people who were kneeling at the center. In 30 years of visiting China, Ken had never witnessed such a performance! The men's a'capella chanting resonates deep within you as you stand mesmerized, and the sounding gong reverberates to your core. It was a special moment and we soaked it up.
And so I set off! I knew basically where it was and that it was within walking distance. I just needed to follow my nose to get there. This Ditan District of Beijing is a busy section of town with some skyscraper office buildings mixed among the usual businesses such as grocery stores and restaurants. I walked past a McDonalds (another on the opposite side of the street), a KFC and a Pizza Hut. The six-lane Andingmenwai Ave. supports honking buses, taxis and cars and has several raised walkways for pedestrians to cross the street safely over the traffic. There are bicycles and pedestrians aplenty on two-lane access roads on either side of the main lanes.
Lama Temple (http://www.beijingservice.com/lamatemple.htm ), or Palace of Peace and Harmony Lama Temple, is a place of fond memories. Ken Lubowich typically takes his groups of massage therapists there, so I've been two or three times. On one occasion a group of Tibetan Monks, dressed in their orange robes, were chanting a ceremony apparently for three people who were kneeling at the center. In 30 years of visiting China, Ken had never witnessed such a performance! The men's a'capella chanting resonates deep within you as you stand mesmerized, and the sounding gong reverberates to your core. It was a special moment and we soaked it up.
And so I set off! I knew basically where it was and that it was within walking distance. I just needed to follow my nose to get there. This Ditan District of Beijing is a busy section of town with some skyscraper office buildings mixed among the usual businesses such as grocery stores and restaurants. I walked past a McDonalds (another on the opposite side of the street), a KFC and a Pizza Hut. The six-lane Andingmenwai Ave. supports honking buses, taxis and cars and has several raised walkways for pedestrians to cross the street safely over the traffic. There are bicycles and pedestrians aplenty on two-lane access roads on either side of the main lanes.
As I walked along I was fully aware that I was the lone Westerner among the masses that afternoon. I focused my eyes forward and was resolute in my determination to reach my destination.
After walking about 15 minutes I crossed Second-Ring Road, which is akin to a freeway or Interstate in the US, with on/off ramps, etc.... But, it's not often these vehicles reach the speed limit of 60 KmH, as it always seems to be bumper-to-bumper traffic. The figure I heard was that 2000 new cars are added to Beijing's population every month! However, I haven't ever witnessed road-rage! You hear honking, but it's just a reminder, "I'm right behind you!" And it's very rare to see a car with dents indicating an accident, or to actually see an accident. I've seen two small-scale accidents in my 4 visits to China.
Once across, I turn left and am pleasantly surprised to find a freshly landscaped walkway with periodic benches and play areas for children. The trees, again, are budding, adding a sweet fragrance to my walk - lilac and magnolia to name just two.
After walking about 15 minutes I crossed Second-Ring Road, which is akin to a freeway or Interstate in the US, with on/off ramps, etc.... But, it's not often these vehicles reach the speed limit of 60 KmH, as it always seems to be bumper-to-bumper traffic. The figure I heard was that 2000 new cars are added to Beijing's population every month! However, I haven't ever witnessed road-rage! You hear honking, but it's just a reminder, "I'm right behind you!" And it's very rare to see a car with dents indicating an accident, or to actually see an accident. I've seen two small-scale accidents in my 4 visits to China.
Once across, I turn left and am pleasantly surprised to find a freshly landscaped walkway with periodic benches and play areas for children. The trees, again, are budding, adding a sweet fragrance to my walk - lilac and magnolia to name just two.
I follow this for 10 minutes or so when I can actually see my destination. I recognize the tall, 250 year old building with the yellow/golden roof tiles that are layered with centuries of dust, dirt and sand. This is the northwest corner of the compound, but the entrance is at the south end. I have crossed the north/south street before I look and realize that there's no sidewalk on this east side of the street. It seems blocked and congested to me. So, I decide to keep going straight and kind of work my way around the block – you know, like we do all the time, right?
Well… I went straight until I found a right-hand turn. It was a bit further than I had expected and the Lama Temple buildings were no longer in sight due to these other buildings. There was a sign with Pinyin words that said, Hutong, which means traditional village. So, I turned right and walked down the street of this hutong, where people live in traditional low buildings and many have a small family business out front, such as a little grocery store with a fruit stand, for instance. Frankly, there weren't too many people out and about, which was okay with me!
I walked quite a ways looking for the right-hand turn that would take me to the entrance of the Lama Temple. Eventually, my street dead-ended into a cross-street. Feeling just a bit uncomfortable, I pulled out my Point-and-Go that Ken Lubowich provided us, and asked a guard at another old-looking building, pointing to the Chinese characters for Lama Temple. He pointed towards the west and I set off. Another left turn and things were looking less hutong and more Temple-esk! Around a couple of corners and there was the entrance – on the same street that I had crossed 10 minutes or so before! It feels good to arrive, you know?!
I purchased my ticket and entered the Temple grounds. Peaceful is the right term for this nicely landscaped place. I purchased some incense and walked through the first archway. Ahead of me was the first of five major temples that housed various statues of Buddha, including one 18 meters above ground and 8 meters below ground made out of the same tree!!! Along both sides were other buildings with Buddhist significance. Outside of each main entrance sat a large incense burner and, nearby, a smaller stand with a protected lighted flame.
Well… I went straight until I found a right-hand turn. It was a bit further than I had expected and the Lama Temple buildings were no longer in sight due to these other buildings. There was a sign with Pinyin words that said, Hutong, which means traditional village. So, I turned right and walked down the street of this hutong, where people live in traditional low buildings and many have a small family business out front, such as a little grocery store with a fruit stand, for instance. Frankly, there weren't too many people out and about, which was okay with me!
I walked quite a ways looking for the right-hand turn that would take me to the entrance of the Lama Temple. Eventually, my street dead-ended into a cross-street. Feeling just a bit uncomfortable, I pulled out my Point-and-Go that Ken Lubowich provided us, and asked a guard at another old-looking building, pointing to the Chinese characters for Lama Temple. He pointed towards the west and I set off. Another left turn and things were looking less hutong and more Temple-esk! Around a couple of corners and there was the entrance – on the same street that I had crossed 10 minutes or so before! It feels good to arrive, you know?!
I purchased my ticket and entered the Temple grounds. Peaceful is the right term for this nicely landscaped place. I purchased some incense and walked through the first archway. Ahead of me was the first of five major temples that housed various statues of Buddha, including one 18 meters above ground and 8 meters below ground made out of the same tree!!! Along both sides were other buildings with Buddhist significance. Outside of each main entrance sat a large incense burner and, nearby, a smaller stand with a protected lighted flame.
I took out three sticks of incense and held them over the lighted flame until the ends began burning. Then, facing the main entrance, I held up the incense and quietly said my prayers. The belief is that the sweet fragrance and the smoke from the incense delivers your prayers to heaven. After bowing three times in reverence, I planted my three sticks of incense in the large incense burner, amidst many other sticks, being careful not to burn myself. Then I stepped to the entrance and absorbed the peacefulness of the place before proceeding on to the next incense burner. I spent an hour that day saying prayers and heaping blessings on friends and family members. Walking home, my heart was full and light at the same time, even though the day was quite warm and I was over-dressed.
Mission accomplished!
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